On Top of the World in Taita Driving from Voi town, down an impossibly bumpy road, one would not be negligent to think that the rolling hills and unending plains were home to only indigenous wildlife and pastoral people. The dryness of the earth and scorched brown grass seems to shudder under the heat of the African sun, cooled only by a gentle breeze that comes down from the Taita Hills. By BRENNEN MATTHEWS

It is a harsh land, a land of blistering hot days and cold windy nights. It is a place off the beaten track and visited by few. Yet a mere 50 km from the Mombasa - Nairobi highway, rests an intimate and picturesque lodge that finds itself nestled peacefully in one of the country’s most serene and lovely settings, overlooking more than 113,000 acres of Kenyan terrain that is home to a wide variety of animal life, from lion to elephant. Lion’s Bluff Lodge, originally known as Lion Rock Tented Camp was first opened in July 1999, changing hands, and as such, names in August 2004.

Situated high at the top of the Mashoti Hills, the lodge is comprised of 12 fully ensuite tented bandas, each commanding an amazing panoramic view of the valley below. Simply furnished with an earthy feel few venues offer an opportunity to sit with a cold drink on a shaded balcony, built high into the heavens, and forget about the busy world far away in Nairobi, Mombasa or even Voi.
Yet this venue is not just a great place to get away for a night or two but also a major success story in the area of community conservation. The lodge was first opened in 1994 via an initiative by one of the three local communities that make up a private sanctuary named LUMO Community Sanctuary,
a play on the first letters of the three communities of Lualenyi, Mramba and Osa. Through partnership with the Kenya Wildlife Service who brought in other international  wildlife conservation and development organizations and a private developer from Voi town, funds were located in 2001 to develop a simple but well designed tented camp that could accommodate interna­tional and domestic visitors in the sanctu­ary. In addition, the community was able to provide 50% of the initial start up costs, thus demonstrating ownership and commit­ment to the project.

With funds in place and the initial building completed, the sanctuary was well under­way. It was time to welcome visitors! Over the years that followed the tented camp was regularly visited by holidaymakers from as far away as Europe and Canada and as near as Mombasa and Nairobi. Reading through the lodge’s guest book is impressive and is a clear demonstration of the impact that the venue has had on those who have had the fortune of crossing the grated roadway to spend some time here, high in the hills. Listening to the community leaders as they share their history and hopes I am encouraged by the dedication that they display for protecting the wild animals that roam the plains below, sharing the land with the indigenous Taita people. “Would you like some tea?” asks David, the friendly camp manager, himself from Central province.

With my nod, arrangements are made and David takes up where the community leader left off. “You know,” he begins in English, “These communities are poor but they are so committed and are real partners with the lodge and with anyone wishing to work with them to preserve all that wyou see around you.” Standing to my feet I gaze in amaze­ment at the breathtaking view that unfolds in every direction. The lodge is built in such a manner that the never ending plains seem to run endlessly in all directions, dotted only by lovely acacia trees and swirls of dust from moving elephant. My tea arrives and I simply sit and exhale deeply awed by the natural beauty that this venue offers.
As usual, I am traveling light, and the room steward seems disappointed at my lack of luggage. He is very friendly and eager to please. Following dutifully behind, I pass several strategically placed tents, each with a commanding view and a drop off that would be hazardous to one’s health should they fall off the edge.

Luckily the walk way is designed for safety and plummeting to your death is highly unlikely. Still, I move away from the edge just to be sure. “Here we are,” Patrick, the room steward, proudly announces, unzip­ping the tent’s main entrance. Simple but comfortably decorated, the accommodation is pleasant.
There is the standard shower and large four poster bed, complete with requisite mosquito net and safari chairs. “Now sir,” he continues, determined to point out every aspect of the tent, “This is the best part. I want to show you the balcony.” Stepping into the bright sunlight, the valley below seems to unfold magically before my eyes, swallowing up the side of the hills that carry my tent and the lodge for that matter. Standing on the wooden deck, I feel like I am suspended in mid air, with the expansive heavens above and the yawning landscape below. It is simply, exhilarating. A water hole in the distance provides an astound­ing view of passing animal life and I am transported back to my younger days when I was a student in Athi River and the plains of the Nairobi National Park spilled over into my backyard. “All this is LUMO Sanctuary,” the Patrick beams. In my silence I think that I was able to communicate my amazement at what the communities had generously opened for visitors like myself to enjoy, to experience.

As the midday sun turns its face away from the earth and the cool of the late afternoon begins to emerge, it is time for my first official game drive. I am excited to sample the wilds of Taita and am hopeful of coming face to face with the big five, especially lions. “You’ll love LUMO,” David encourages as we prepare to pull out. “We have almost everything!” Driving down the side of the hill toward the far-a-way plains below, the truck jars left and right, throwing me around like a rag doll until we reach the calm of the well worn earth below.

Soon we are motoring, eager to find ourselves some Tuskers – the four legged variety. Our ranger, Peter, does not disappoint. A child of the communities of LUMO, he knows the sanctuary inside out and is quick to spot camouflaged beasts hidden well within the bush and thicket. “Stop,” he suddenly mo­tions animatedly, tapping the driver on the shoulder. Twenty minutes into our first ride out and already we have stumbled upon a resting male lion, lazing away the heat of the afternoon, preparing for the hunt. My imagination is fired up! He lies alone, undisturbed by our presence, unconcerned by our whispers. “Look, look!” Peter calls in an excited whisper, no attempt to muffle.....